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    • Selznick International Pictures
    • Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer (MGM)

    Gone With the Wind Audition Photo

    1938

    Costume seen on Marcella Martin as Scarlett O'Hara

    • Selznick International Pictures
    • Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer (MGM)

    Gone With the Wind Technicolor Screentest

    1938

    Costume seen on Vivien Leigh as Scarlett O'Hara

    • Selznick International Pictures
    • Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer (MGM)

    Gone With the Wind

    1939

    Costume seen on an extra

    • Universal Pictures

    Can't Help Singing

    1944

    Costume seen on an extra

Additional Images

About the Costume

This green gown, often called the “Green Library Gown,” the “Apple Green Gown” or the “Screentest Gown” was used for the Bazaar Scene in Gone With the Wind. It was rented from The Western Costume Company (see Selznick’s memo below). However, the gown was first used before any actual filming for the scene began. It was worn by Marcella Martin for her audition for Scarlett O’Hara, though she would ultimately be given the role of Cathleen Calvert. It was also worn by Vivien Leigh, when doing screentests for Scarlett O’Hara, and a technicolor screentest in December of 1938, would wear this gown before it was publicly announced that she had the role of Scarlett O’Hara, and Walter Plunkett eventually designed her final wardrobe.

We can learn a good deal about the production and the costumes from Gone With the Wind from the many memos written by David O’Selznick before and during the film’s production. The following segment, taken from a memo from Selznick to R.A. Klune on February 3rd, 1939, is interesting because it discusses the costumes from the bazaar scene. It also mentions how he wished they could have recycled costumes from other productions that had been worn by stars such as Norma Shearer and Joan Crawford!

I was very disappointed by the costumes in the bazaar sequence during the dance. Much of the loveliness that this sequence could have had has been lost through the very ordinary costumes worn by the dancers. I am aware that we do not want to spend money building costumes for extras, but I think that we might have done much better if we had used a little more effort to get costumes worn by stars in other pictures, notably at M.G.M. Certainly, costumes worn by Miss Shearer and Miss Rainer and Miss Crawford and all the other woman stars in various costume pictures could have given us a much more beautiful effect in this scene that the cheap looking extra costumes that we have utilized...

The response from Klune to Selznick came on February 6th, 1936, and mentions where the costumes were obtained, and the process taken in having them made.

Your memorandum concerning costumes in the Bazaar Sequence brings up a number of important points that should be given consideration immediately, the principal one concerning authenticity, and another, to what extent Mr. Cukor’s approvals may be considered final by Mr.Lambert and Mr. Plunkett. 105 of the dresses on women in the Bazaar were manufactured by Western Costume Company from scratch in accordance with sketches and specifications as to color and material as submitted by us. Samples of the dresses were in each case shown to Mr. Cukor for his approval. In all cases, Miss Myrick felt that we were dressing the women much too nicely for Atlanta of that day. However, both Lambert and Plunkett went very much further than she said was permissible in attempting to make the gowns lovely. It would have been just as easy and not much more expensive to have gone to more picturesque dresses because of having completely manufactured so large a number. While on a production rental basis, we are paying much less, some of the manufactured dresses have cost as much as $75.00 to make. It seems a shame now that they are not what you wanted. Lambert and Plunkett both took your instructions literally when you suggested that they accept Mr. Cukor’s approval on the wardrobe for bits and extras and, of course, feel very badly now that they have missed giving you what you wanted in the sequence

The gown is used again in another film called Can’t Help Singing, interestingly enough with costumes by Plunkett, though this gown, in particular, was almost certainly rented from The Western Costume Company.

About the Costume

Have you seen this gown somewhere else? Do you need to be given credit for this sighting? Do you have corrections, additions or changes you would like to make?

Have you ever watched a film and noticed a character walk by in a gown that you just know you’ve seen before? Recycled Movie Costumes is dedicated to documenting the life of a costume through its various appearances on film and television.

Additional Images

About the Costume

This green gown, often called the “Green Library Gown,” the “Apple Green Gown” or the “Screentest Gown” was used for the Bazaar Scene in Gone With the Wind. It was rented from The Western Costume Company (see Selznick’s memo below). However, the gown was first used before any actual filming for the scene began. It was worn by Marcella Martin for her audition for Scarlett O’Hara, though she would ultimately be given the role of Cathleen Calvert. It was also worn by Vivien Leigh, when doing screentests for Scarlett O’Hara, and a technicolor screentest in December of 1938, would wear this gown before it was publicly announced that she had the role of Scarlett O’Hara, and Walter Plunkett eventually designed her final wardrobe.

We can learn a good deal about the production and the costumes from Gone With the Wind from the many memos written by David O’Selznick before and during the film’s production. The following segment, taken from a memo from Selznick to R.A. Klune on February 3rd, 1939, is interesting because it discusses the costumes from the bazaar scene. It also mentions how he wished they could have recycled costumes from other productions that had been worn by stars such as Norma Shearer and Joan Crawford!

I was very disappointed by the costumes in the bazaar sequence during the dance. Much of the loveliness that this sequence could have had has been lost through the very ordinary costumes worn by the dancers. I am aware that we do not want to spend money building costumes for extras, but I think that we might have done much better if we had used a little more effort to get costumes worn by stars in other pictures, notably at M.G.M. Certainly, costumes worn by Miss Shearer and Miss Rainer and Miss Crawford and all the other woman stars in various costume pictures could have given us a much more beautiful effect in this scene that the cheap looking extra costumes that we have utilized...

The response from Klune to Selznick came on February 6th, 1936, and mentions where the costumes were obtained, and the process taken in having them made.

Your memorandum concerning costumes in the Bazaar Sequence brings up a number of important points that should be given consideration immediately, the principal one concerning authenticity, and another, to what extent Mr. Cukor’s approvals may be considered final by Mr.Lambert and Mr. Plunkett. 105 of the dresses on women in the Bazaar were manufactured by Western Costume Company from scratch in accordance with sketches and specifications as to color and material as submitted by us. Samples of the dresses were in each case shown to Mr. Cukor for his approval. In all cases, Miss Myrick felt that we were dressing the women much too nicely for Atlanta of that day. However, both Lambert and Plunkett went very much further than she said was permissible in attempting to make the gowns lovely. It would have been just as easy and not much more expensive to have gone to more picturesque dresses because of having completely manufactured so large a number. While on a production rental basis, we are paying much less, some of the manufactured dresses have cost as much as $75.00 to make. It seems a shame now that they are not what you wanted. Lambert and Plunkett both took your instructions literally when you suggested that they accept Mr. Cukor’s approval on the wardrobe for bits and extras and, of course, feel very badly now that they have missed giving you what you wanted in the sequence

The gown is used again in another film called Can’t Help Singing, interestingly enough with costumes by Plunkett, though this gown, in particular, was almost certainly rented from The Western Costume Company.

This green gown, often called the “Green Library Gown,” the “Apple Green Gown” or the “Screentest Gown” was used for the Bazaar Scene in Gone With the Wind. It was rented from The Western Costume Company (see Selznick’s memo below). However, the gown was first used before any actual filming for the scene began. It was worn by Marcella Martin for her audition for Scarlett O’Hara, though she would ultimately be given the role of Cathleen Calvert. It was also worn by Vivien Leigh, when doing screentests for Scarlett O’Hara, and a technicolor screentest in December of 1938, would wear this gown before it was publicly announced that she had the role of Scarlett O’Hara, and Walter Plunkett eventually designed her final wardrobe.

We can learn a good deal about the production and the costumes from Gone With the Wind from the many memos written by David O’Selznick before and during the film’s production. The following segment, taken from a memo from Selznick to R.A. Klune on February 3rd, 1939, is interesting because it discusses the costumes from the bazaar scene. It also mentions how he wished they could have recycled costumes from other productions that had been worn by stars such as Norma Shearer and Joan Crawford!

I was very disappointed by the costumes in the bazaar sequence during the dance. Much of the loveliness that this sequence could have had has been lost through the very ordinary costumes worn by the dancers. I am aware that we do not want to spend money building costumes for extras, but I think that we might have done much better if we had used a little more effort to get costumes worn by stars in other pictures, notably at M.G.M. Certainly, costumes worn by Miss Shearer and Miss Rainer and Miss Crawford and all the other woman stars in various costume pictures could have given us a much more beautiful effect in this scene that the cheap looking extra costumes that we have utilized...

The response from Klune to Selznick came on February 6th, 1936, and mentions where the costumes were obtained, and the process taken in having them made.

Your memorandum concerning costumes in the Bazaar Sequence brings up a number of important points that should be given consideration immediately, the principal one concerning authenticity, and another, to what extent Mr. Cukor’s approvals may be considered final by Mr.Lambert and Mr. Plunkett. 105 of the dresses on women in the Bazaar were manufactured by Western Costume Company from scratch in accordance with sketches and specifications as to color and material as submitted by us. Samples of the dresses were in each case shown to Mr. Cukor for his approval. In all cases, Miss Myrick felt that we were dressing the women much too nicely for Atlanta of that day. However, both Lambert and Plunkett went very much further than she said was permissible in attempting to make the gowns lovely. It would have been just as easy and not much more expensive to have gone to more picturesque dresses because of having completely manufactured so large a number. While on a production rental basis, we are paying much less, some of the manufactured dresses have cost as much as $75.00 to make. It seems a shame now that they are not what you wanted. Lambert and Plunkett both took your instructions literally when you suggested that they accept Mr. Cukor’s approval on the wardrobe for bits and extras and, of course, feel very badly now that they have missed giving you what you wanted in the sequence

The gown is used again in another film called Can’t Help Singing, interestingly enough with costumes by Plunkett, though this gown, in particular, was almost certainly rented from The Western Costume Company.

Credits

Sighting Credit:
  • Katie S.
  • Elisabeth
  • Nikki
Photos provided by:
  • Katie S.
  • Elisabeth
  • EmiliyK
  • justprosper
  • Nikki
Costume Designer:
  • Western Costume Company

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