Linda Mattock originally designed this stunning pink gown for the 1978 ITV mini-series Lillie, where Francesca Annis wore it as Lillie Langtry, famous mistress to the Prince of Wales (later Edward VII). Mattock’s designs for the series earned her a BAFTA nomination. Bonham’s would later describe the dress as:

A form-fitting princess line gown of pink/peach wild silk with a swagged overskirt ruched at the sides and back to reveal a silk lace flounced underskirt and a short train. The lace is repeated at the collar, jabot, and cuffs. 

In 1983 Diana, The Princess of Wales, along with the then Prince of Wales (now Charles III), visited Edmonton, Alberta, and were guests of honor at a barbecue at the recreation of Fort Edmonton. The event required “Klondike Era” clothing in celebration of the 1898 Klondike Gold Rush. 

Diana needed a costume, so John Bright, costume designer and the founder of Cosprop, brought several period-appropriate gowns to Kensington Palace for her to try. Cosprop had created the original dress from Lillie based on Mattock’s designs, so it was one of the selections he brought with him. 

Diana, who had seen the mini-series and knew about Lillie Langry’s dalliances with the former Prince of Wales, was also well aware of her own husband’s mistress. Mischievously, Diana chose the pink gown from the selection of dresses, telling Bright that she “wouldn’t mention [the history of the dress] around the palace.”

Though the dress was used, it had to be altered to fit Diana’s frame, which Bright did personally, lengthening the gown to accommodate the difference in heights between Diana and Francesca Annis. Diana also chose not to use Victorian undergarments with the gown, which give it its beautiful shape showcased in Lillie. 

Eventually, this dress was sold by Bonham’s and has been on display several times, including at the Queen Mary in Long Beach, California, at the exhibit called Diana: Legacy of a Princess. To see an extensive history of this dress, please visit this fantastic site.